Wednesday, October 1, 2008

COAST! (:

Coast is the part that merges and adjoins with the sea.
Wave is the movement of the water surface of the sea and is driven by wind.
The size of waves affected by 3 factors:
1) Fetch: The longer the fetch, bigger the waves formed
2) Wind movement: Bigger wind movement, bigger the waves
3) Wind duration: The long the duration of wind, the larger the waves.
-> Water that flows in deep water will lose energy
-> Water that flows near to shore will slow down due to friction
-> Friction will cause waves to rise and bend
-> As it continues bending, it will bend and form foams.

Constructive Wave Destructive Wave
Long wave length Short wavelength
Short wave height Long wavelength
wave frequency of 6-8 wave frequency of 10-14
spilling beaker plunging beaker
Happens in sheltered and gentle coast Happens in open and steep coast
Erosion is most prominent Deposition most prominent

Tides are the daily alternate rising and falling of sea level due to gravitational pull on the moon, and to a certain extent, the sun.
It has an impact on the coast: During high tide, erosion of the coast occurs and on low tide, it will transport large part of the coast away.

Currents are large-scale, persistent movements of the water, largely driven by prevailing wind.
They are responsible for shaping the coast and thus is able to transport a huge area of coast over a long distance in a short period of time.
Longshore currents are currents that are formed when waves approach the coast at an oblique angle, and is parallel to the coast.

Coastal Erosion is affected by 4 factors:
-> Type of wave: Usually destructive; more energy for erosion
-> Minerals and composition of rocks; Those with more lines of weaknesses will get eroded
first as compared to lesser ones. Softer rocks will get eroded faster than hard rocks; Those
with dissolve minerals will erode away faster ; usually in open and steep coast.

Coastal Deposition is affected by 3 factors:
Gradient: Gentle gradient
Sediments: Speed of coast is slow and a lot of sediments there and so it will settle down on
bed of coast and get deposited.
Position of coast: gentle and sheltered coast

Coastal Transportation: By Longshore drift
-> Waves that approach the coast at an obique angle and are parallel to coast
-> Sediments are transported to the shore by swash
-> Sediments will then be pulled back by backwash that moves perpendicular to the shore.




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